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Apricot Riesling Jam

Apricot Riesling Jam

Please welcome Garrett McCord of Vanilla Garlic, who shares with us his latest jam recipe. ~Elise

I'm surprised that the food obsessed don't consider Ernest Hemingway a proper food writer. Go pick up a copy of A Farewell to Arms or "Big Two-Hearted River" and pick any random page and the characters are either drinking or eating, though it's more likely the former. He even titled his memoir, A Moveable Feast.

Recently I was working on a paper for a class in my Master's program that was discussing the use of food and drink in Hemingway's works as a form of escapism. Now after so much reading and writing I usually have to escape myself and do so through food, which proves once again that life imitates art (and academia, apparently). However after all this food lit. study I decided to see if I could cook up something inspired by Hemingway.

I decided to make a jam since Catherine in the novel A Farewell to Arms is pining for it as she crosses into Switzerland in a paddle boat in the middle of a storm to escape the Italian army. As for using apricots, Nick in "Big Two-Hearted River" downs a few cans of them in his pastoral journey for inner peace. Finally, since it was Hemingway I was dealing with, booze had to be used, no question. Finding a nice Riesling that paired well with the apricots I was all set to go. The result was a jam that I'm sure Catherine, Nick, Hemingway himself, or any literature lover will find perfect for smearing over some warm bread. The perfect accompaniment to your Summer reading.

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Apricot Riesling Jam Recipe

Most of the alcohol cooks out and leaves a delightful flavor that I encourage you try, but if you don't want to use wine, just substitute with water. This recipe can be easily doubled; if doubling, use an 8-quart pot.

Ingredients

  • 5 cups of chopped apricots, pits discarded*
  • 2 + 3/4 cups of sugar
  • 1/3 cup of Riesling (or Gewürztraminer)
  • 5 tablespoons of lemon juice

Method

1 Place the apricots, sugar, wine, and lemon juice in a large (at least 4-qt), thick-bottomed, stainless steel pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Place a couple small plates in the freezer, these will be used to test the jam later.

2 The mixture will boil and rise in volume. Skim off the pale yellow foam that forms at the top and discard. The boil will subside to larger bubbles, but still bubble vigorously. Be sure to begin gently stirring the jam frequently to prevent it from sticking to the bottom.

3 After about 25 minutes begin testing the jam by placing a small amount on a cold plate. Allow 30 seconds to pass and then run your finger through it to see what the cooled consistency will be. Boil for a few minutes longer if desired for a thicker jam.

4 Ladle into hot, sterilized canning jars** and seal leaving 1/4 inch of head space. Before applying the lids, sterilize the lids by placing them in a bowl and pouring boiling water over them. Wipe the rims of the jars clean before applying the lids.

Makes four 8 oz. jars. Will keep for up to a year.

* If you want, you can use a few of the kernels from the pits to give your jam a slight almond-y flavor. Roast the pits at 350 for about 10 minutes. Take them and crack them open with a hammer (do outside on concrete), and extract the kernel. Roast the "nuts" for a couple of minutes. Pop one or two in each sterilized jar when you pour the jam in.

** To sterilize the jars, rinse out clean Mason jars, dry them, and place them, without lids, upright in a 200°F oven for 10 minutes.

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34 Comments

My husband would adore this.

Posted by: Angie on July 10, 2009 5:54 PM

You should call this "Hemingway Jam". :-)

For the most part, I do. ;) ~Garrett

Posted by: Meilin on July 10, 2009 6:19 PM

I just recently started canning. This looks just divine. Would you recommend waterbath processing for safety?

You can, but the amount of sugar in this keeps it pretty safe and sound for up to a year. The simple pop-the-top method here is fine. ~Garrett

Posted by: cosmic cowgirl on July 10, 2009 6:48 PM

How lovely! He makes quite a few references to absinthe in "For Whom the Bell Tolls". That might make a nice jam as well.

Posted by: Jillian on July 10, 2009 6:51 PM

To me, this jam looks like summer. I love the addition of Riesling.

Posted by: Faith on July 10, 2009 7:21 PM

I love Apricot Jam. I bet the Riesling helps the color stay nice and bright too. Sounds wonderful.

Posted by: Susan on July 10, 2009 7:59 PM

You. Are. Amazing! I love Hemingway's works and I agree that he certainly had an appreciation of fine food and food played an important role in the his books. This recipe idea is so well thought through, it is just brilliant.

Posted by: Iva on July 11, 2009 2:12 AM

This looks so delicious, I just might have to make a batch or two. I needed apricot jam for my habanero apricot salsa anyway, and this looks like it would provide that an added flavor boost.

Posted by: John Barrie on July 11, 2009 6:05 AM

Can peaches be substituted for the apricots?

Never tried it, but sounds great. In the case of peaches be sure to blanch them quickly in hot water first for a few seconds, then pop them into ice water and remove the peaches' skins which aren't jam friendly. ~Garrett

Posted by: Clyde Kunkel on July 11, 2009 8:37 AM

I am intrigued by the book influenced recipe. A fictional character, Sue Grafton's Kinsey Millhone, started me on Riesling, she drinks a particular brand, and I just had to try it...and now I'm hooked on trying them all! I'm book marking this recipe.

Posted by: Gail on July 11, 2009 10:12 AM

I like the sound of experimenting with using wines in jams!

Posted by: Kevin on July 11, 2009 10:37 AM

As an interesting and slightly macabre side note, the apricot pits impart a slight almond-y flavor to the jam because they contain traces of cyanogenetic glycosides, which essentially turn into cyanide upon ingestion. (Almonds contain trace amounts of the same stuff, and bitter almonds contain lots of it - hence the flavor; Gabriel Garcia Marquez's Love in the Time of Cholera starts out with a cyanide/almond reference - IIRC, the first line is "It was inevitable - the smell of bitter almonds always reminded him of unrequited love.")

Roasting the apricot pits should get rid of most of the cyanogenetic glycoside, and it would take a fair number of whole, unroasted apricot pits to hurt a child (and many more to hurt an adult) - so putting one in the bottom of your jam jars should be just fine. But yep, it's the teensiest bit of tasty, tasty cyanide that gives the jam that slight almond flavor.

That's why it's an optional part of the recipe, and why they are roasted twice. The toxic enzyme is active only when it comes into contact with water. Roasting it destroys the enzyme. Interesting factoid: almond extract is made from apricot pits, not almonds. ~Garrett

Posted by: retroknit on July 11, 2009 12:13 PM

I loved your recipe, I found it last month and had to make it, though I couldn't resist tweaking it a little for what I had on hand. Used a bunch of oranges as the base plus dried apricots, Riesling and a lemon. delicious chunky orange goodness.

Posted by: Elisabeth on July 12, 2009 6:28 AM

Garrett, this does sound amazing. I assume you used a sweeter Riesling rather than a dry one?

Posted by: Larry on July 12, 2009 6:38 AM

I really want to try this recipe, do you think raw cane sugar could be used, or better yet, stevia- if so how much? What could be used in place of the wine, I'm pregnant and avoiding alcohol? Thanx!

The alcohol should cook out, but if you're really concerned, try water. As for raw sugar or stevia I never used either. I would avoid any sugar substitutes like stevia as I have no clue how they might react or preserve the fruit. Give it a shot and let us know. ~Garrett

Posted by: Carmen on July 12, 2009 7:16 AM

Sounds delicious - I want to try this with peaches instead of apricots - we can only get the occasional grocery store apricot, but fresh peaches are in season now in southern Arkansas.

One of my favorite cookbooks for pure reading pleasure is by Hemingway's granddaughter, Joan Hemingway. It is called "The Picnic Gourmet" and is out of print, but very enjoyable to peruse if you find it at a library. It includes a number of Hemingway family dishes.

Thanks for the recipe!

Posted by: Georgiaberry on July 12, 2009 9:03 AM

I finished A Farewell to Arms recently, and I was also struck by the number of references to food in it.

It's a horrific - but brilliant - tale, and at points it sems incongruous for thoughts to turn to lunch or dinner, but such is the way of things. Amidst the horror, people yearn for the normal, for home comforts, to displace themselves from their predicament, just like Catherine and her jam. Hemingway knew this, because I suspect this is how he felt himself.

Utter genius, and that looks like a first rate jam too.

Posted by: them apples on July 13, 2009 4:18 AM

The jam sounds fantastic. I want to make jam but the whole ordeal of preparing the jars puts me off. Guess I need to make a small amount so I don't have to do all that.
This recipe is a great motivator to get me started.

That's how most people I think feel about jam. But really, the whole thing is just so effortless. My first time I was worried about sterilizing, but it all worked out even though I thought I messed up every step of the way. This is a great starter recipe. ~Garrett

Posted by: Joanne on July 13, 2009 5:36 AM

This looks just lovely - like summer in a jar. I've played around with a few attempts at canning jams, but never had a recipe that didn't call for pectin or one that called for adding wine. I am so happy to have this! Thank you!

Posted by: TexasDeb on July 13, 2009 5:43 AM

Have a question rather than a comment-- how many pounds of apricots are needed to make the 5 cups? I am looking forward to making this!

Not sure, I never really weighed them. I just happened to have friends with trees who unload insane amounts of apricots on me so I always have enough. I would guess four pounds-ish? ~Garrett

Posted by: Jerrie on July 13, 2009 6:03 AM

That's it, off to the fruit stand and the wine store! While we discuss apricots, peaches and almonds, is it true that almond branches are grafted onto peach trees because peach trees are strong enough to bear the weight?

I would ask an almond or peach farmer. ~Garrett

Posted by: Kevin on July 13, 2009 10:37 AM

My all-time favorite preserve flavor -- this is a lovely, simple recipe that I will try very soon. I think it will be heavenly warmed to get a bit syrupy, and then served over the very best quality vanilla bean ice cream.

I love that apricot pit suggestion -- reminds me of those old British mysteries, maybe one of Dorothy Sayers, where the murder is acomplished with the oily top layer that rises off noyeau, or bitter almond liqueur, which is supposed to be decanted properly before drinking to avoid poisoning. Or so they say.

You can do out jars for canning with chlorine water too, if you don't want to oven sterilize them or put them to a boiling water bath -- I think it's right that there's too much sugar to let any mold take hold. Put the jars in a canning bucket, and pour boiling water from a big kettle over them, filling the jars, then add a quarter cup plain cholorine bleach to the gallon of water and let cool. Rinses right out of glass jars with no odor. Do out the metal caps with cholorine water and a little brush, rinse well, voila.

Posted by: mantha stoirmeil on July 13, 2009 11:20 AM

Wow, this sounds delicious! I've been wanting to try to make jam for the last few weeks - maybe this weekend I'll give this one a shot!

Posted by: Nicole on July 14, 2009 5:03 AM

This was delicious! I actually used some of it over bonesless spare ribs and baby bokchoy. No leftovers!

Posted by: Allison on July 19, 2009 1:37 PM

This was delicious. I made it this past Sunday. I will definitely make again. I can't wait to give two of my jars to family. My only comment is I boiled it for under 25 minutes, and I only got three small jars worth. I think there were like 5 oz jars, not 8 oz. Did I boil it too long or too high? Also I did buy 4 pounds of apricots which was way too much for 5 cups. Maybe 2 1/2 pounds or 3 pounds would suffice? Sorry, I forgot to count the number of apricots. Thanks for sharing this wonderful recipe!
-Elise Lafosse

Jam turns out different every time since the fruit each season and from tree to tree is different. Don't worry too much. Sometimes it just happens. This recipe gave me only three jars once, and five another, yet I never change a thing except the fruit. ~Garrett

Posted by: Elise on July 20, 2009 12:27 PM

I used peaches and champagne instead of apricots and Riesling, and it was still delicious!

Posted by: Linds on July 26, 2009 9:00 PM

I have never thought about preparing jam with riesling. Intriguing. I have to try this.

Posted by: Joanna in the kitchen on July 27, 2009 2:51 AM

This is the best apricot jam I've ever had! I was a bit dissapointed that I only got two jars, but the taste is amazing. Any other super easy jam recipes would be fantastic.

Posted by: Katie on July 28, 2009 10:05 AM

Do you peel the apricots? I can't wait to go back to the store so I can make this!

No need to peel the apricots. ~Elise

Posted by: dccmom1 on August 16, 2009 7:47 AM

In a word, wow! Since the golden plums were so sweet & plentiful at the farmer's market I planned to make it with plums instead. Then, I discovered that I didn't have any Riesling wine at home (that was a surprise) so I went with the Gewürztraminer I had on hand. I got about 5 1/2 cups of Golden Plum Gewürztraminer Jam from the batch. I canned 3 cups of it into 4 oz jars - went ahead with the hot water bath because they didn't seem to seal. This was my first time canning & I'm so pleased with how it turned out!

Posted by: Amy Artisan on August 16, 2009 5:30 PM

This was really good; thanks for posting it!

Posted by: Alison on August 17, 2009 5:50 PM

I was wondering whether I could add pectin to this recipe? Has anyone tried?

Posted by: christy on August 23, 2009 9:35 AM

This stuff is so good it makes me smile when I eat it. I changed nothing and used a Riesling from Buckingham Valley Vineyards in Pa.

My boyfriend had sent me the recipe because it had Riesling in it and that is my favorite wine.
Thank you for this!

Posted by: Heidi on September 6, 2009 8:43 AM

Note that Cyanide is found in apricot pits. I've no idea what level of cyanide is in the pits and how much would be harmful...

Yes, this subject has already been covered in depth in the comments. ~Elise

Posted by: Barbara on September 25, 2009 12:48 PM

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